I'm not saying one sucks or which is hands down better as the only way to do that would be to open both files up and compare, but if you're not one hell of an engineer and break their encrypting then you can't. Just because someone can tune suspension or build a block doesn't mean it's the same as the next guy who can. Just like building an engine or suspension. It comes down to knowledge, experience, etc. exe fiels doesn't mean what is inside the files is the same or does the same thing. Like computer software, just because you install two. You can flash for just fuel or you can flash for 20+ other things if you have the knowledge, then you need to have the knowledge on what data to replace it with once you figure out how to flash it. The amount of power from such a tiny light-weight package, is both amazing and potentially scary when you really think about it.Each company has their own flash for all the different specs that they can, or have the ability, to crack. It certainly has come in handy for jump-starting other people's cars/trucks though. This is why I don't keep my Li-Ion jump-start battery in the car or trunk of the motorcycle. Find another place to pickup a battery where you can put your hands (and voltmeter) on it right away. If you go to pick up a battery and the dealer delays, it's probably because it was allowed to get too low and they're just now charging it. They're not supposed to be allowed to drain below a particular level or they'll sulfate. The vehicle will charge it and you won't know whether it was drained below optimal level. If you wait until you put it in your vehicle, it's too late. I've caught (and would've caught) a few batteries near purchase time this way. Also look for a date on the battery/package. Whether it's an automobile or bike battery, take a volt meter with you when going to purchase. They're supposed to periodically pull it down and hook it to a tender, as per instructions from the battery manufacturer. Almost immediately went back to Pb-Acid.įor those complaining about inconsistent results with Pb-Acid, you're getting them after they've sat on a shelf too long. But prior to the battery being ready, it won't have enough cranking amps to keep the ECU alive while it struggles to turn the engine. Headlamps don't turn on unless the engine starts. Modern bikes use LED which draw far, far less power. It's highly unrealistic to stand around for ten minutes or longer with your thumb up your a**, in frigid weather, trying to warm up the battery on running lights and that's with the benefit of incadescent bulbs. The Shorai "CCA" rating is a flat-out lie. But a major issue if you have a naked, or moved your battery away from hot parts.īeen there, did this several years ago. Less of a problem on an FJR due to battery being next to radiators in an enclosed space behind fairings. If your battery is close to your engine or radiators, warming them up first would probably be enough to keep your battery warm during your ride, assuming you are within reasonable speed limits. If you simply have to ride in marginal temperatures and have a lithium battery, give you bike a few minutes to warm up on a parking lot. Simply because before a bike warms up, incoming air stream can supercool a battery by a few degrees due to slipstream pressure differentials. They will burn until everything burns out.Īlso, even if temperature is slightly above 0C, I would still not recommend using lithium on something like a motorcycle. they produce a self contained exothermic reaction and do not require oxygen or additional fuel. Remember - lithium batteries can not be put out by any fire extinguisher. Permanent degradation is just a minor side effect at that point. So you battery gets a double kick in the nuts - one from heating up because it can not absorb all the charge you generator throws at it, and the second when one of these spikes pierces the membrane and makes a short circuit. But most importantly - they can pierce the membrane that separates positive and negative charge. When subjected to an incoming current from your generator, it can not absorb the charge and spikes start forming on differently charged lithium sides that grow towards the opposite charged part. When a lithium battery gets below zero, it can still discharge more or less safely. It is about starting a fire inside your bike. Necroing the thread a little, but I must stress that lithium batteries are absolutely not suitable for below zero centigrade temperatures.
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